Aldeburgh, suffolk

Don't miss

Moot point
Start out with a history lesson at the intriguing Aldeburgh Museum, which is housed in Tudor-era Moot Hall on the seafront. Its collections span everything from Anglo-Saxon burials and traditional fishing methods to the medieval witch trials that form a sinister chapter in Suffolk's past. 

Gone fishing
The days of Aldeburgh being home to a thriving fishing fleet are long past, but nevertheless there are still a few boats that put out from the beach. When they return, go see the fishermen selling their catch of herring, cod and skate from stalls set up directly on the shingle. 

Silver screen
A handy rainy-day option is a matinee screening at Aldeburgh Cinema. This independent picture house shows mostly arthouse flicks in a comfy auditorium with original Art Deco features. It's licensed too, so moviegoers can grab a locally-made beer or ice cream to take into the show. 

Shell shocked
Head north along the beach toward Thorpeness to connect with Scallop, a four-metre-high steel sculpture by Suffolk-born artist, Maggi Hambling. Though loved by visitors, the artwork caused a stink among some more conservative locals who objected to its arrival on this lonely stretch of shore. 

Paddle power
Keep heading north along the shore from Scallop to reach Thorpeness, two miles from Aldeburgh. This fairytale village has lots of appeal, from boating on Thorpeness Meare (whose islands are named on a Peter Pan theme) to the quirky architecture of House in the Clouds, one of England's most fanciful follies. 

Back to nature
Aldeburgh sits within the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The easiest portion to reach is the RSPB's North Warren nature reserve, which is an easy walk from the centre of town. Wander its trails (one of which follows the old railway line) through wetlands, woodland and heaths that throng with wild reptiles and birds.  

Cultural fix

For the composer Benjamin Britten, Aldeburgh was inspiration and home. The Aldeburgh Festival (usually held in mid-June) is his lasting legacy. It takes place predominantly at Snape Maltings, an arts complex in a heritage building located a few miles upriver. Its cultural offering at other times includes a programme of weekend concerts. 

Bottoms up

The big name on the local brewing scene in this part of Suffolk is Adnams, which operates out of Southwold, a few miles further up the coast. Sample its wares in the dedicated Adnams shop on Aldeburgh's High Street, or grab a six-pack or bottle of wine with which to pimp up a picnic.

Pretty much every local pub sells Adnams by the pint. The 16th Century Cross Keys, being Adnams-affiliated, has a great selection of staples (including cask ales such as Ghost Ship and Broadside, or Kobold English lager) plus a seasonal guest ale on tap. For a different pub scene, try David's Place, a tiny bar with quirky interiors housed in a former pharmacy that occasionally hosts live music (and has a Thai restaurant upstairs). 

Perhaps the best seat in town though is on the sea-facing terrace at The Brudenell, which is as close as you'll get to the surf without actually sitting on the shingle. In good weather, it's an all-day suntrap protected from sea breezes by see-through screens. If the weather's not on your side though, retreat instead to the comfort of an armchair in the hotel's cosy lounge. 

Feed me

The coffee and cakes are so good at Two Magpies Bakery that takeaway queues form early. Bypass the line and bag a table for a breakfast of eggs on sourdough toast or fresh-baked pastries and doughnuts (or come back for lunchtime sandwiches, substantial salads and, um, more cake). 

For a daytime snack with local flair, hit Aldeburgh Smokehouse - a shack on the beach that sells ready-to-eat platters of mackerel and herring, plus shell-on prawns and 'noon tarts' (a type of quiche). Alternatively, pick up a posher picnic of sausage rolls and regional cheeses at Slate. 

Of course the obvious thing to eat on the beach is fish and chips. Queues form outside both the Golden Galleon and Aldeburgh Fish & Chip Shop and even locals are split between which one is best: but it's a moot point as both are under the same ownership and are excellent. 

For a more upmarket seaside supper, try Aldeburgh Market for beer-battered fish alongside the likes of crab linguine or a flavourful South Indian fish curry. Alternatively, The Lighthouse is a multi-awarded restaurant with plenty of seafood options (sourced from the boats that launch from the beach) balanced by local pork, steaks and a separate vegan menu. 

LGBT+

The Red House - the home that Benjamin Britten shared with his partner, the tenor Peter Pears - is open to the public, including the room in which he wrote several of his masterpieces. Britten is buried locally at the Church of St Peter and St Paul, whose stained glass windows include a Britten memorial by the artist John Piper. 

Best foot forward

This easy, three-and-a-half-mile loop takes in the shoreline, tidal River Alde and wildlife-rich coastal marshes. From Aldeburgh's beach, head south down the waterfront towards the round Martello tower (a relict of the Napoleonic Wars). You'll soon reach the small fishing village of Slaughden - or at least the location where Slaughden once stood before being lost to a North Sea storm. Take the public footpath inland and (ignoring any right turns unless you want to cut the route short) stay on the raised river bank and follow it all the way round a wide loop in its course. The path eventually leaves the raised bank and heads over the marshland to the back end of town. Bear right on either the footpath or lane and you'll wind up at the south end of Aldeburgh High Street - conveniently close to The Brudenell for a celebratory drink in its bar.  

Take me home

Love Aldeburgh? Then take a piece of it with you. Aldeburgh Contemporary Arts has mounted canvases of colourful coastal scenes (plus easier-to-carry, ceramic bird sculptures). Easier still are Riley & Riley's wave-smoothed Aldeburgh pebbles set on silver chains as a form of wearable art. For something more light-hearted, Alde River has gifts and homewares with a seaside theme (think lobster-shaped coat hooks and carved, wooden birds), or try The Pug and the Pussycat's more upmarket collection. As for sweet treats, binge on Harris & James's gelato and quality chocolate made (without palm oil or plastic wrapping) just up the road in Beccles.