Six of the Best: wildlife weekends

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Sir David Attenborough deserves his place as a much-loved national icon. His wildlife documentaries have immersed countless viewers in the wonders of nature, from wildebeest crossing the Serengeti to polar bears hunting for seal-sized meals. But there's animal magic to be found right here in Britain too. Go wild on these weekend breaks and experience amazing wildlife spectacles that impress in terms of numbers, size and behaviour. 

 

Pink-footed geese, North Norfolk

Perhaps our most memorable - and certainly the noisiest - wildlife experience occurs on winter evenings in Norfolk. The county is a magnet for wildfowl, from Bewick's swans on the Ouse Washes to bean geese at Buckenham Marshes, but the much more common pink-footed geese steal the show. Some 60 per cent of their world population winters here in Britain, with around a third of them settling in North Norfolk. Seek them out at wild and wonderful Holkham National Nature Reserve, whose wetlands welcome a roost that can be 35,000 strong. Numbers peak in December and January, when dusk sees a whirling mass of loudly honking birds descend for the night. It's an abundance of life rarely seen beyond an Attenborough documentary. Stay within walking distance at the very lovely Victoria Inn, a flint-built, former hunting lodge with rooms from £150 per night, B&B. 

 

Puffins, Farne Islands

Springtime sees a turnaround in Britain's bird populations. Pink-footed geese head back to Iceland, swallows fly in from Africa and seabirds return to their colonies after wintering far from land. Britain's coasts host some of the world's most spectacular seabird cities, where the cliffs come alive with razorbills, guillemots, gannets and everyone's favourite: the puffin. For unbeatable meets with these comical critters, head to Northumberland's Farne Islands. It's a wildlife encounter that's every bit as impressive as those on TV.  Get there by boat (from £20pp) from the village of Seahouses to admire the birds on land and sea, taking in every detail from monochrome plumage to rainbow-bright beaks. Come in the puffins' breeding season (April to July) and stay up the coast at Bamburgh's The Lord Crewe Hotel, which stands in the shadow of Bamburgh Castle and has superior rooms from £140 per night, B&B.

 

Basking sharks, Isle of Man

Puffins are not Britain's only dose of maritime animal magic. Over on the west coast, summer is the season of basking sharks. Reaching lengths of 30 feet or more (that's longer than a double-decker bus), these massive, real-life sea monsters are the world's second-largest fish. Despite their size, the gentle giants subsist on a diet of plankton that they filter from the water as they swim along at the surface. As they cruise down the coast, their triangular, metre-tall dorsal fins are easily seen from shore, especially between May and August on the Isle of Man. The cold, deep waters off the island's west coast are renowned as a basking shark hotspot: it's not uncommon to see several at once on a summery cliff-top stroll. Base yourself at Albany House, the top-rated place to stay in Peel, which has rooms from £89 per night, B&B. 

 

Whales & dolphins, Isle of Mull

Sea life gets more varied further north in the Hebrides. The region ranks among the best spots in Europe for whales and dolphins, with a quarter of the world's 80-odd species having been recorded here. Some are year-round residents, others visit for a season, and yet others (including the super-sized blue whale) pass through on rare occasions. The species you're most likely to see are bottlenose dolphins, porpoises and minke whales (the smallest of the 'great whales'). Look for them from land at any of the viewpoints on the Hebridean Whale Trail, or sail out to seek them with Staffa Tours (from £45). The best conditions for whale-watching are when the sea is smooth as glass, so come between May and September for the best chance of success. Stay on Mull overlooking the docks at The Tobermory Hotel, which has rooms from £165, B&B. 

 

Seals, North Norfolk

Sea mammals are also a feature back in North Norfolk, where Blakeney Point hosts colonies of both the UK's seal species. Conveniently, their breeding seasons do not overlap, which means the seals are here pretty much year-round. Common seals have the right idea - they take over the beach in summer and are best seen between June and August - while their larger grey seal cousins prefer the less balmy weather from October to January. It obviously suits them though: with well over 3,000 white-coated pups born here in the average breeding season, this is England's largest grey seal colony. They're easy to see too: boat trips (£15) leave from Morston Quay when tides and weather permit, allowing remarkably close encounters without disturbing or stressing the animals. Stay in the next village along at The Stiffkey Red Lion, which has comfortable room from £129 per night, B&B. 

 

Starling murmuration, Brighton

As winter returns, our attention once again turns to the birds - and this final wildlife spectacle is a showstopper. Starlings may be individually rather unremarkable, but when they come together in flocks they are nothing short of magical. By day, the birds disperse to feed, but as evening approaches they gather to put on aerial stunts before bedtime. It's formation flying on another level. Wheeling across the darkening sky like an animate, shape-shifting smoke cloud, the birds coalesce into murmurations, moving as one organic mass with incredible synchronicity. The mesmerising phenomenon can be observed nationwide, from Ham Wall on the Somerset Levels to Leighton Moss in Lancashire, but more accessible are urban locations such as the rusted ruins of Brighton's West Pier. Bed down in lively Kemptown at boutique-chic The Twenty One, where the best rooms start from £135 per night, B&B. 

James Litston