Alfriston, East Sussex
A country walk to Alfriston and the Long Man of Wilmington, East Sussex
Come face to face with an East Sussex icon on this circular walk into the South Downs National Park. The mysterious Long Man of Wilmington is a giant, staff-wielding figure gazing out over the landscape from the flank of a chalky escarpment. Admire his bold, white outline as you loop through a scenic valley carved by the River Cuckmere on its journey to the English Channel. You'll also pass a trio of flint-built churches and pause in Alfriston: a historic village that's one of the oldest (and surely among the prettiest) in the county.
Starting point: Berwick, East Sussex (an hour and a half from London, or 30 minutes from Brighton)
Last hurrah: Berwick
Distance: 8¼ miles , 4-5 hours
When to go: All year. Some sections of path can be muddy (and the Cuckmere can burst its banks) in winter, but this walk is lovely whatever the season - and the Long Man always impresses.
Difficulty: The only downside is having to make two crossings of the A27, which carries a lot of fast-moving traffic. Be patient: a gap always opens eventually.
See the map for this walk here: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/wkndr-long-man-of-wilmington-alfriston/210920554/
You'll need to create an outdooractive profile to view the route, then hit 'Open in App' on your mobile phone to follow it using GPS.
Directions: Leave Berwick station to the left, cross the road and turn immediately right (before the service station) on a footpath into a paddock, signposted Cuckmere Pilgrim Path. As you crest the rise ahead, a view opens up to the left over Arlington Reservoir and sweeps across to a chunk of chalk downland on the right. This brooding mass of South Downs scenery is Windover Hill, on whose flank you'll catch your first glimpse of the distant Long Man etched in white. Originally carved into the chalk but now demarcated with easier-to-maintain tiles, he's been a Sussex fixture since at least the early 1700s (and possibly much, much longer).
At a lane, turn left and immediately right to pick up a footpath through a grassy meadow below the reservoir's dam. Keep going until this path meets a paved country lane, whereupon cross over and pick up the path on the other side, into the trees. When this hits the lane again, turn right and cross the bridge over the Cuckmere, then go right again on the Wealdway path to follow the river's flow.
Rising up ahead once again is Windover Hill with the Long Man - closer now - standing out brightly against the green turf. Stay on the path as it leaves the river and weaves its way in his general direction, carefully crossing the railway line and then - even more carefully - the A27. Once across, keep straight ahead on the Milton Street road, then take the first footpath on the left, signposted Wilmington. Follow this across pastures and paddocks, keeping straight ahead all the way to the village. Then turn right along its only street to admire its brick and flint cottages.
As the lane makes a gentle ascent, take a detour to the right for a close-up of the churchyard's centuries-old yew tree, its heavy branches propped up on poles in its battle against old age. Then rejoin the road and continue past the ruins of Wilmington Priory and the village pound (where stray animals once were kept) to the point where the road dips downhill. Pause here to drink in the very best view of the Long Man over the fields; then pick up the footpath to the left, paralleling the road before sweeping around to meet the Long Man himself.
As you pass through a gate right beneath the figure, turn around to soak up the scene back over Wilmington to Arlington Reservoir, with the downland summit of Firle Beacon to the left. Disappointingly, the Long Man loses all perspective this close up (plus at nearly 70 metres tall, he's not easy to photograph), so take your leave and bear right along the footpath. Where this meets another path at a gate, stay straight to connect with a wide farm track. Follow this downhill, taking note of the sinuous folds of the Downs and, in the distance ahead, another hill figure (this time a white horse) with a glimpse of the sea far beyond.
When the track meets a lane, cross over and continue downhill on another wide track, then take the footpath on the left across an open field, heading towards a church steeple. At the bottom of the slope, cross the lane and take the bridleway ahead, crossing the Cuckmere again to reach Alfriston. Bear immediately left onto the village green to check out St Andrew's Church (nicknamed the Cathedral of the Downs) and, next to it, the 14th Century Clergy House - the National Trust's first ever property. (There's a decent coffee shop on the green, too.)
When you've seen all the sights, hit the high street and bear right, passing timber-framed shop-fronts and medieval inns to reach the market cross. Bear left onto West Street and follow it uphill. Where it turns sharp right, keep going straight on a farm track, then bear almost immediately right onto a footpath leading towards a church steeple. It's worth popping into the church to see its colourfully painted walls; then carry on into Berwick village, where you'll find The Cricketers Arms. If the weather's OK, take a table in the garden and refuel on pub classics, the rather good Sunday roast and local beers from Harvey's Brewery up the road in Lewes.
After lunch, crack on to the end of the lane to cross the A27. Turn left along the highway and immediately right onto a footpath through a paddock and arable fields beyond, following signs for the Vanguard Way. Stay on this path as it crosses a lane, then proceed up a driveway. Just before this reaches farm buildings, turn sharp right onto a footpath for the final stretch back to Berwick station. Watching you complete the circuit from way across the valley is the Long Man, giving you one last glimpse before you head for home.
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