Seaford Head and Seven Sisters, East Sussex
A coastal walk to Seaford Head and the Seven Sisters
Rising near Winchester, the rolling hills of the South Downs run for 100 miles across Hampshire and Sussex before ending abruptly on the coast between Brighton and Eastbourne. The gleaming white cliffs at their end form an eye-catching interface between land and sea - and this route takes in the prettiest section of all. Start in Seaford and walk from west to east to soak up those views at their best, then take advantage of frequent buses for an easy ride back to the starting point.
Start/end point: Seaford, East Sussex (an hour and a half from London by train)
Distance: 9 miles (or 4 miles if you only go as far as Saltmarsh Farmhouse), 3-5 hours
When to go: all year, but avoid very windy days as the breeze blowing in from the sea can be brutal
Difficulty: The Seaford Head section is pretty straightforward, with less in the way of severe ups and downs. The Seven Sisters portion is considerably tougher, with steep slopes to negotiate between each of the hills. There are no stiles to climb on this walk.
See the map for this walk here: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/wkndr-seven-sisters-seaford-to-east-dean/204234781/
You’ll need to create an outdooractive profile to view the route, then hit ‘Open in App’ on your mobile phone to follow the route using GPS.
Directions: Starting at Seaford station, cross the roundabout onto Clinton Place and turn right into Broad Street, Seaford's shopping thoroughfare. Stop to pick up snacks and supplies (try the sausage rolls from the butcher's shop on the corner of High Street), then continue into Saxon Lane and on to the Esplanade. Pass the Martello Tower (a Napoleonic War-era, circular fort) and a row of beach huts to where the land rises up ahead at Splash Point.
The hillside before you - a huge block of chalk - is the start of Seaford Head, which juts out in the English Channel between here and Cuckmere Haven. Take the path upwards through rabbit-grazed turf dotted with summertime wildflowers. Follow it past the golf course and over the crest of the hill to reveal the view of a great, sweeping bay backed with sheer, white cliffs capped by Belle Tout lighthouse.
From here, the path descends gently, with each step bringing that gorgeous view closer. At the bottom, a staircase leads down the cliff face to the beach at Hope Gap should you fancy exploring; otherwise continue up and over a final rise to reach this coastline's signature sight: the cliff-top Coastguard Cottages overlooking the Seven Sisters. These 18th-century houses were immortalised in the movie Atonement, which is just as well for their days are numbered: erosion will eventually claim them for the sea.
The broad, flat valley below is Cuckmere Haven, a renowned beauty spot. Follow the footpath inland along its western flank all the way to the bridge, beside which stands a pub, the Cuckmere Inn. Ignore it and continue across the bridge and down the roadside path to the far more charming café at Saltmarsh Farmhouse. With excellent coffee, Sussex cider and ale and a simple, seasonally-changing menu, this is the perfect spot for lunch (especially if you snag one of the tables outside in the courtyard). Expect hearty salads, hot dishes such as chicken pie or lentil dahl, and a great selection of cakes and scones to round everything off.
If you've had enough walking for one day, the bus stop right outside has frequent 12A or 12X services back to Seaford. Otherwise, cross the road and head seawards on the paved track down the east side of Cuckmere Haven. This stretch can be busy with day-trippers, but you'll leave the crowds behind soon enough. Where the path veers left at Foxhole Farm, continue straight on through the gate and take the left fork (signposted South Downs Way) to climb out of the valley.
As you ascend, look back across the lagoon and shingle beach to the Coastguard Cottages on the far side of the estuary. As the path nears the cliff top, you'll be reconnected with the view of Belle Tout on the horizon, at the culmination of several rolling hills divided by steep-looking valleys. These - Haven Brow, Short Brow, Rough Brow, Brass Point, Flagstaff, Flat Hill, Bailey's Hill and Went Hill - are the famous Seven Sisters. Lovely they may look, but traversing the dips in turn between each hill will feel ever more challenging.
This whole stretch of coast was once haunted by smugglers. The lumpy turf on the cliff top at Crowlink Valley hides the remnants of a coastguard station that stood here on the lookout for contraband. At the top of the next hill, a stone monument is a good place to catch your breath and soak up the view of those last chalky peaks between you and Belle Tout. As you descend the final slope before the land rises up to the lighthouse, note the cottages on the cliff at Birling Gap. Less lucky than those back at Cuckmere Haven, these are all that remain of a once larger terrace: the rest have been lost to the sea.
Continue to Birling Gap if you wish (a staircase gives access down the cliff to a pebbly beach and, at low tide, chalky rock-pools) but if you're flagging by now, take the bridleway inland towards East Dean. Pass a flint barn and then veer off right as the obvious trail turns left. Head obliquely in the direction of rooftops on an adjacent hill, noting how the scrub you're passing is bent into awkward shapes by the wind. Follow the footpath that plunges down the slope towards the village. Continue to the village green and the picture-perfect Tiger Inn, which must surely qualify as one of England's prettiest pubs. Reward yourself with local beers either warm by the fire or out on the green, as the season permits.
When you're done, tuck around the back of the pub and follow the flint wall past the car park and paddock to the roadside bus stop for frequent 12A or 12X services back to Seaford (contactless payment accepted).
Start planning your journey with www.thetrainline.com