Stour Estuary, Essex 

Directions: Exit Wrabness station through the car park and turn immediately left at the village shop into a cottage-lined lane. Cross the railway bridge and proceed down a track towards the wide River Stour and, before it, a very unusual building. Wrapped in green and white tiles beneath a gleaming, copper-clad roof, this is A House For Essex - a fanciful folly designed by the famous artist, Grayson Perry. Built in 2015, the house is both artwork and holiday home. The path runs right alongside the property so, as you pass, look closely at the symbols that adorn some of the tiles. This is Julie, a fictional character for whom the house was built by her (fictional) husband when she died in an accident: a love story that's earned this landmark the illustrious nickname of "Taj Mahal of Essex". 

Proceed down the path to the riverbank and follow it to the left. Beyond a row of wizened oaks, a panorama opens up to reveal, over on the Suffolk side of the estuary, industrial Felixstowe Port on the right all the way upriver to the Royal Hospital School. This is the big sky country that so inspired the likes of Gainsborough and Constable, who made their names painting the landscapes further up the Stour in the 1700s. 

At the caravan park ahead, turn inland and follow the track up the slope to the road, whereupon turn right. The little church that you'll pass on your right, All Saints Wrabness, is part Norman, part medieval, though the churchyard's wooden bell tower is comparatively sprightly (it's thought to be 17th Century). 

Just before the last cottage on the right, take the footpath back towards the river and turn immediately left (signposted Essex Way) past the back of the cottage and on between hedgerows. Stay straight until the path rejoins the riverbank, then continue along the top of the raised sea wall. This leads into Wrabness Nature Reserve, where a screen provides shelter for observing the estuary's birdlife. In winter, large flocks of wild geese and shorebirds feed on the low-tide mudflats, while the shrubbery shelters nightingales, warblers and turtle doves in summer. 

As the path turns inland, keep right until it reconnects with the river and passes a Georgian farmhouse complete with dilapidated barn. At the far end of the fields ahead, follow the path along a stretch of beach until it reaches a paved lane heading inland. Take this and pass under the railway to the top of the lane, then turn left into the village of Bradfield. Pass the church and stay ahead on The Street, then take the right turn onto Mill Lane. At the point where this turns sharp left, stay straight on the Essex Way into an open field, then a paddock before meeting a road. 

Turn right and then immediately left into a driveway, then right again (before the house) to continue on the Essex Way across a field and into a wood. Ignore any deviations and stay straight ahead until the path leaves the wood and heads into another paddock Cross a stream and take the next path on the right towards a tall chimney standing proud of the trees. Pass back under the railway and alongside that chimney to reach a leafy village green in Mistley. 

Turn right here and you'll find yourself at  The Mistley Thorn, a truly fabulous gastropub overlooking the Stour and Mistley Quay. The menu goes large on locally-sourced seafood and meats (try the Suffolk chicken schnitzel or the epic seafood mixed grill), or there's a daily set menu of seasonal goodies such as a summer veg risotto or sea bream with caponata. 

Mistley itself is lovely. Admire its houses and architecture as you leave the pub and head left down the high street, passing the landmark twin towers (all that remain of a 17th Century church) before connecting again with the waterfront. Try not to trip over the herds of swans that gather here, waiting to be fed. The pleasant, waterfront promenade ahead leads all the way to Manningtree (said to be England's smallest town). 

Where Manningtree merges into considerably less charming Lawford, you've a choice: either continue straight ahead for the last half-mile to the station (total 8 miles) or take the footpath through the industrial estate back to the riverbank for a longer but much more scenic final push. It's an extra two-mile loop, but it's worth it. Cross the main road and follow the footpath past wildlife-rich Cattawade Marshes, staying on the riverbank all the way till the first footpath off to the left (signposted Manningtree), which leads to the station. By the time you get there, you'll be ready to loosen your laces and take the weight off your feet... and maybe start planning your next trip this way for our Constable Country walk.

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