Arundel and Amberley, West Sussex

Where to stay

Blowout
There aren't many British boltholes with magic to rival Amberley Castle.  Set within crumbling, 12th Century walls, it's one of the county's finest hotels. Muskets, swords and suits of armour maintain a medieval theme, but the rooms (all timber beams and generous proportions) come with swish, modern bathrooms. Doubles from £195, B&B.

Boutique
It may not get the best reviews, but The Town House certainly has one of the best vantage points in town: its front-facing rooms overlook the steely-grey walls of Arundel Castle. Each of the five good-sized guestrooms has its own individual style, including some with four-poster beds. Doubles from £110, B&B.

Budget
Central to everything in Arundel is The Swan: a historic pub just off the market square. Though creaky floorboards and rooms named after Sussex landmarks keep things authentic, its up-to-date style meets contemporary tastes while referencing (through seabird-print fabrics and coastal artworks) the sandy shores four miles downriver. Doubles from £85, B&B.

Don't miss

King of the castle
The town's big draw is magnificent Arundel Castle. Though the motte (mound) at its heart dates from 1068, the main building is much more recent (it was remodelled and restored in 1900). Check out its medieval defences, opulent staterooms and artworks by Van Dyck and Gainsborough. 

Feed the birds
Come nose to beak with waterfowl at Arundel Wetland Centre, whose half a dozen themed exhibits bring the world's wetlands to life. As well as pelicans and exotic ducks, look out for wild birds such as kingfishers or the predatory marsh harriers that roost here in winter. 

Row your boat
A quintessential summer experience is renting a rowboat on Swanbourne Lake, a lovely expanse of water wedged between forested slopes within Arundel Park. As is typical of chalk streams, the water is crystal clear, so look out for ducks diving under to forage for food on the bottom. 

Peddle and paddle
Alternatively, hire a motorboat at Houghton Bridge (near Amberley Station) and potter along the Arun for a pint at The Black Rabbit pub. The same rental facility also offers mountain bikes year-round along with suggested, traffic-fee routes to follow along the valley and up into the Downs. 

Stride out
Easy access to the countryside makes this a great base for hikers. Hit the South Downs for views to the sea or across the High Weald into Surrey, or stay on lower ground for riverside walks. The whole area is a hotspot of biodiversity, so bring binoculars for maximum animal encounters. 

Sandy shores
The Arun meets the sea due south of Arundel at Littlehampton, whose West Beach flows into Climping Beach to create a long, wild stretch of shore. Backed by dunes with fields beyond, the shingly beach has a faraway feel, especially as the tide falls to reveal a vast, sandy expanse.

Cultural fix

Built in 1873 in the French Gothic style, Arundel Cathedral dominates the skyline. Its soaring interior is always impressive, but never more so than during the Christian feast of Corpus Christi (some 60 days after Easter) when the aisle is decorated with a carpet of flowers. Admission free. 

Bottoms up

Kick-start the day with a caffeine fix from Tarrant Street Espresso, which uses quality Square Mile coffee (roasted in London) and organic milk from nearby Goodwood. Pimp up the experience with fresh-baked pastries and other sweet treats sourced from a Scandi-style bakery a little further upriver in Fittleworth. 

Seek hyper-local flavour at The Norfolk Tap, a craft beer specialist within a Georgian coaching inn on Arundel's market square. Staple brews include Norfolk Tap bitter and Norfolk Gold pale ale, or sample something quirkier such as stout flavoured with coffee and maple syrup, or cider from nearby Cowfold. 

Find further regional tipples just up the street at Digby Fine English, whose tasting room claims to be the UK's first high street cellar door. Try a flight of Digby-branded bubbles: exceptional English sparkling wines made with grapes sourced from the chalky terroir vineyards of Sussex, Hampshire, Dorset and Kent. 

A few doors further up the hill is The Town House, whose lounge (with Italian gilded ceiling dating from the 1500s)serves the best cocktails in town. As well as the likes of espresso martini or summery Aperol spritz, there's a short but decent wine list and platters of cheese or antipasti. 

Feed me

One thing Arundel isn't short of is places for coffee and cake. The go-to spot here is Belinda's, a traditional tearoom in a 16th Century building on Tarrant Street. It's not the edgiest café in town, but its sandwiches, snacks and Sussex cream teas (all made on-site) are sure crowd-pleasers. 

For something a bit more contemporary, head a few doors down to Juniper, where it's all about grand café vibes on a micro scale. Owner Jenny's home-baked cakes might include chocolate-and-Guinness, cherry-marzipan or mojito, plus there's Sussex gin to provide extra kick for when caffeinated beverages just aren't enough. 

Country hikes are all the merrier when there's a decent pub en route. Top billing here is The George at Burpham, a lovely village about half-way between Arundel and Amberley (the Sunday roasts are legendary). Also worth the walk is Amberley's Black Horse, whose garden has gorgeous South Downs views. 

Feeling fancy? Then go all fine-dining at The Parson's Table in Arundel, which is arguably among the best restaurants in Sussex (the chef is ex-Claridge's and Raymond Blanc). Otherwise dine beneath the Queen's Room restaurant's vaulted ceiling at Amberley Castle, where dishes are served with fanfare but without excessive fuss.

LGBT+

Perhaps not the most obvious LGBT connection, but among Arundel Castle's treasures is the gold-and-enamel rosary that Mary Queen of Scots carried to her execution in 1587. Her husband, Lord Darnley, was notorious for his not-so-clandestine same-sex liaisons, and their son - the future King James I - had a string of male lovers.

Best foot forward

From the Arundel side of the bridge across the Arun, head past the riverside ruins of Blackfriars (the remains of a Dominican friary) and proceed along Mill Road, above which looms Arundel Castle. As well as plenty of waterfowl, the Mill Stream on the left is home to a population of water voles that, with patience and luck, can sometimes be spotted nibbling plants on the banks. Carry on across a stone bridge to reach pretty Swanbourne Lake. Turn in here and follow the footpath around either side of the lake. At its far end, head through a gate and ascend the grassy slope ahead, stopping at the top to take in the view towards the sea. Then descend the same way and complete the circuit of the lake, looking out for the colourful mandarin ducks that inhabit its far end. Finally, retrace your steps back down Mill Road to Arundel. 

Take me home

Arundel has a small but decent selection of independent shops. As befits the historic setting, antiques are a big pull. Browse for arts, crafts and bric-a-brac at Nineveh House on Tarrant Street, or look for more upmarket finds a few doors down at Antiquities or at Spencer Swaffer Antiques on the High Street. Also here are The Book Ferret (good for current titles and an intelligent choice of gifts) and Kim's Bookshop, which is particularly strong on titles covering Sussex history. For more local flavour, hit Pallant of Arundel to stock up on honey, chutneys, wines and other foodie treats.