bournemouth, dorset

Don't miss

Seaside staples
Embrace the cheesy seaside spirit by checking out Bournemouth's more mainstream attractions. Start at Bournemouth Pier for its slot machines, candy floss and pier-to-shore zip wire; then go maximum kitsch with a round of crazy golf at Smugglers Cove. 

Hit the beach
Bournemouth's biggest draw is its generous drift of powdery sand. On sunny days, the busiest sections can become rather crowded, so follow the locals to quieter stretches away from the obvious. The beach at Branksome Chine is a local favourite for uncluttered sands and the smell of the pines. 

Surf's up
If there's a swell, head to Boscombe Beach for your best chance of catching a wave. If not, no stress: try stand-up paddleboarding instead. Rent either board (plus wetsuits if needed) from Sorted Surf Shop by Boscombe Pier, which puts you within easy reach of the purpose-built surfing break just offshore. Beginners can benefit from group or one-on-one instruction. 

Back to nature
You don't have to travel far from town to get into the great outdoors. To the west of Bournemouth lies Brownsea Island: home to red squirrels, woodland walks and a bird-filled lagoon. Get there with Brownsea Island Ferries from Sandbanks. Over in the east, close to Christchurch, is Hengistbury Head - a mix of salt marsh, sand dunes and heaths inhabited by sand lizards and natterjack toads. 

Peddle power
Dash all across town or along the promenade with Beryl Bikes: Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole's handy bike-share scheme. With over 300 Beryl Bays located between Sandbanks and Hengistbury Head, you're never too far from a pair of wheels. 

Rainy day
If rain stops play, keep things coastal at the seafront Oceanarium by meeting otters, penguins, stingrays and sharks. Alternatively, head up to Westbourne's grand, Victorian shopping arcade to catch a classic movie at Bournemouth Colosseum. With only 19 seats, it's Britain's smallest cinema. 

Cultural fix

Step back in time at Russell-Cotes, a one-of-a-kind museum housed in an opulent, cliff-top villa overlooking Bournemouth Pier. Built in 1901 as East Cliff Hall, the lavishly extravagant home is filled with artworks and treasures that its Victorian owners, Merton and Annie Russel-Cotes, collected on their travels.

Bottoms up

For caffeine fiends, there's no better cup than that served at South Coast Roast. From roasting its own beans to using only local ingredients, this Aussie-inspired coffee shop embraces quality and provenance. It takes its footprint seriously too, with a zero-waste policy and fully compostable takeaway cups. Hands down, it's the best brew in town. 

When it's time for wine, seek out your nearest Renoufs, a local cheese-and-wine-bar chain with outlets in Westbourne, Southbourne and Canford Cliffs. Choose from over 250 wines sourced from as far away as New Zealand or as nearby as right here in Dorset: then stop it all going to your head by mopping it up with cheese or charcuterie.  

For after-beach beers or cocktails, head to Urban Reef in Boscombe and soak up the bohemian buzz at its promenade-level bar. There's a similar vibe (but without the sea views) at sister property Urban Garden, an indoor/outdoor venue with terraces overlooking the treetops of Bournemouth Gardens.It's a popular spot with a decent selection of cocktails, wines and local ales. More elevated still is LEVEL8IGHT Sky Bar- the South West's highest bar with views of the pier from, you guessed it, the 8th floor of the Hilton Bournemouth hotel.

Feed me

If there's one thing you've got to eat at the seaside, it's fish and chips. Go full maritime by eating yours at Key West Bar & Grill, which comes with the added advantage of end-of-pier views. For a classier experience still within sight of the waves, upgrade to a seafood feast at WestBeach. Set right on the promenade, this quality restaurant offers indoor and outdoor dining with menu highlights (beyond beer-battered fish) including baked hake, Dorset crab and rope-grown mussels.

There's more seafront dining further along the promenade at Urban Reef, where wood-fired pizzas, burgers, fish and Indonesian curry are balanced by a good selection of "plant-powered" alternatives. In fact the meat-free revolution has taken Bournemouth by storm, with excellent vegan cuisine to be found at Twelve Eatery  and Terroir Tapas, both of which are big on local provenance. 

That same regional theme is celebrated at Arbor, one of Bournemouth's best restaurants, where sustainable seafood and artisanal ingredients are sourced "from bay, barn and butcher" across Wessex. The result is exceptional fine dining that's both relaxed and reasonably priced. The area's other big-hitter is The Jetty over in Christchurch, which is popular for its tasting menu, seafood grills and Sunday lunches. 

LGBT+

Bournemouth's bijou gay village is in The Triangle, just up from central The Square. Flirt is the go-to spot here, but also check out DYMK. Things really kick off in summer when Bournemouth's Pride event, Bourne Free, touches down in Meyrick Park for a full weekend of parties, parades and (ideally ocean-friendly) glitter.

Best foot forward

Where else to stroll at the seaside other than along the prom? From Bournemouth Pier, it's possible to walk all the way to Hengistbury Head without leaving the promenade (a distance of around five miles). Head east past the beach huts towards Boscombe, taking a detour to walk to the end of Boscombe Pier. The panorama from its end - framed by the Isle of Wight on one side and Old Harry's chalk stacks on the other - is arguably the best sea view in town. As the prom carries on beneath sandy cliffs and the sleepy suburb of Southbourne, the beach becomes ever less crowded. If you make it all the way to Hengistbury Head, pop into Hiker Café for lunch or a caffeine kick before heading all the way back the way you came - ideally on a Beryl Bike to give your feet a break. 

Take me home

Commercial Road and Old Christchurch Road are the hub of Bournemouth's pedestrian precinct, making this the place to come for typical high street staples. For more in the way of independents, hit the suburban villages. The best of the bunch in Southbourne is delightful Sugar Mango, where "urban beach style" underpins its collections of womenswear, jewellery and gifts. Westbourne's Victorian shopping arcade is worth a look (especially the homewares at Scape), as is monthly Westbourne Famers Market's for artisanal goods. If you miss it, no worries: South Coast Roast's fresh-ground coffee makes for a great foodie souvenir.